Sakamoto Castle Ruins Park

The Phantom Castle Beneath the Waves: Retracing Samurai Aesthetics and Tragedy at Sakamoto Castle Site Park

You have walked through the magnificent Nijo Castle in Kyoto, marveling at the symbols of the Shoguns’ power. It is a wonderful experience, yet do you ever find yourself longing to touch a “phantom place”—somewhere that has vanished from the grand stage of history, yet undeniably existed?

If so, visit Sakamoto Castle Site Park, located on the shores of Lake Biwa at the foot of Mt. Hiei, just a stone’s throw from Kyoto. This is the former site of a Mizujiro (Water Castle), once praised as the most beautiful in Japan. It was built by Akechi Mitsuhide, the brilliant general and right-hand man of Oda Nobunaga who later rewrote history with the “Honno-ji Incident.”

In this now-quiet park, let’s unravel why history fans from around the world come seeking this “invisible castle.”

1. Memories of a Masterpiece: “Second Only to Azuchi Castle”

In 1571, following the turbulent burning of Mt. Hiei, Akechi Mitsuhide was entrusted with the governance of this land. The Sakamoto Castle he built was a pioneer of the “Water Castle” style, with stone walls dipping directly into the waters of Lake Biwa. The Jesuit missionary Luís Fróis praised it at the time as “the second most magnificent castle in Japan, following Azuchi Castle.”

Standing in Sakamoto Castle Site Park, you will first be struck by the overwhelming expanse of Lake Biwa. It is said that in the past, a grand, white-shining keep reflected off the lake’s surface, looking like a palace floating upon the water.

While almost all the buildings have been lost, a bronze statue of Mitsuhide stands in the park, gazing silently over the lake. Is he looking at his former glory, or his own tumultuous fate? Walking through this park allows you to enjoy the “margins of history”—a luxurious contrast to the “perfected temples” of Kyoto.

2. The Miracle of the Stones: Visible Only When the Waters Recede

The primary reason Sakamoto Castle is called a “phantom castle” is that most of its remains still sleep at the bottom of the lake. After Mitsuhide’s death, the castle was dismantled by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and many of its stones were moved to the nearby Otsu Castle.

However, not everything vanished. Only when the water level of Lake Biwa drops to an unusual low do the original stone walls of the inner bailey emerge from the lakebed. If you happen to visit when rugged, ancient stones are visible along the shore, you are looking at authentic fragments of the castle Mitsuhide built 450 years ago while dreaming of unifying the nation. The fact that history is breathing beneath your feet, even if unseen, is the mysterious charm that fascinates travelers.

3. The Aesthetics of the Vanquished: Mitsuhide’s Beloved Landscape

In Kyoto, you often see the footprints of “winners” like Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi. However, here at Sakamoto Castle Site Park, you can feel the sincere side of Akechi Mitsuhide—a man who, despite being labeled a loser by history, was deeply loved by his people.

Mitsuhide restored the town of Sakamoto after it was devastated by war and watched over the people’s lives from this castle. As you feel the pleasant lake breeze, look across to the opposite shores of Omihachiman and Kusatsu.

“Did Mitsuhide also feel this same wind and gaze upon this beautiful lake?”

The moment that thought crosses your mind, Mitsuhide ceases to be just a “traitor” from a textbook and stands before you as a passionate human being. This deep dialogue with history is something you can never find by merely visiting crowded tourist spots.

4. Travel Advice: Feeling the “Winds of History” in Silence

For travelers who have enjoyed Kyoto’s traditional culture but wish to spend a quiet moment reflecting on the way of the Samurai, Sakamoto Castle Site Park is the ultimate retreat.

Dialogue with the Statue: The statue of Akechi Mitsuhide in the park shows him with his helmet removed, looking over the lake with a serene expression. It seems to reflect his inner desire for peace during an era of war.
Lakeside Stroll: Informational plaques explaining the history of Sakamoto Castle are scattered throughout the park. Reading them as you walk allows the 16th-century panorama to reconstruct itself in your mind.
Pair with Mt. Hiei: Gaze at Mt. Hiei towering behind you and imagine the strategic and religious reasons why Mitsuhide had to build his castle at this specific location.

Conclusion: The Ultimate Journey—Seeing the Invisible

A trip through Kyoto is a journey to admire Japan’s “Tangible Beauty.” A trip to Sakamoto Castle Site Park is a journey to know Japan’s “Intangible Memories.”

Just minutes from the thousand-year-old capital, you can listen to the waves and dream of the “phantom masterpiece” that once stood here. That quiet time will make your Japanese journey deeper and more contemplative.

Access: From JR Kyoto Station: